This is my fifth time in Argentina, in 3 years. In December 2006, I decided to visit a country I knew nothing about to relieve the mundane existence in Canada. Pretty much just throwing darts on the map, I decided to come to Argentina. Well, Argentina is at the other end of the earth, and far away from Canada, so it fit my bill of getting away.
With absolutely no knowledge of Spanish and the country, I jumped on a flight and headed to Buenos Aires. I was hooked ever since...
How to explain this fascination? I am not quite sure, and I do not want to belabor on that. A standard answer I give goes as follows: Argentina is definitely not like Canada for one, its language is Spanish (some say Italian-ated Spanish) and sounds passionate and very distinct, its history is fascinating (and a bit too 'crazy' for modern North Americans or Europeans), its sprawling geography showcases any landscape you would want to see anywhere else (mountains, deserts, glacier, plains, sea, rivers, coasts, lakes, tropical zone, sierras/ hills....), its politics boisterous and in general, a very resourceful country, like Canada.
However, Argentina is a puzzle to
many. One of the most famous economists, noble prize laureate, Paul Samuelson once remarked "There are 4 types of economies in the world: developed nations, developing nations, Japan and Argentina". Below I will put down some observations and thoughts on Argentina...these are totally my own and I do not claim scientific validity to them. Most of the thoughts and observations are on the Argentine people. For me, it is the most interesting concern when I go visit a place.
First of all, to paint the Argentina people with big brushes: imagine 35% of Spanish immigrants, 35% of Italian immigrants, the rest consists of Jewish, Middle Eastern, other European, and a minor population of asian immigrants and the native people. Mixing them over the centuries, then you get the Argentine people. The city and the province of Buenos Aires, Cordoba, Rosario, and Mendoza are said to have the most European immigrants. The further you go inland to the interior provinces, you see more people with the native mix, or equally more of the 'Hispanic' look. So depending on where you go in Argentina, you would notice the change in demographic/ ethnic composition. In Buenos Aires, Cordoba and Mendoza, what do people look like? Well, I would say that in general they have the Mediterranean look, strong facial features, high-bridged noses, deep eye-sockets, dark or blond hair. It is more frequent that the men here leave their faces slightly un-shaved so to have a scruffy (macho?) look. It is very common for them to have longer hair compared to North Americans, usually sporting a mullet covering down their necks. The girls in general dress well and make good use of make-ups. Women here seem to be of medium built compared to North American women and carry a hand-bag, in Buenos Aires, at least. (this is more similar to Europeans).
However, what I really like about Argentina and which North America lacks, is the warmth, passion and spontaneity exhibited by the people here. Argentina seems to have retained the Mediterranean roots of its immigrants, or maybe it is the latin culture in general where they throw their arms open (in general) to foreigners and strangers. Some say they are the Europeans without the attitude. I don't know if all will agree with that characterization...however, I do feel welcomed and at home every time I am here. People greet and make eye contacts with you; they want to show you their cities, their villages, their people and are happy to chat with you. They are not afraid to embrace you and spend quality time with you...this the North Americans would rarely do. The importance of human relationships seem to be so naturally embodied here, you feel it is part of daily life. In the developed world, we seem to have become so atomic in the units of our lives, that we no longer spend time with friends, with family and with strangers.
Argentina is also a land of contrasts, contradictions, and extraordinary events, depending on how you look at it:
* The pavement of Plaza 25 de Mayo in front of the presidential palace, Casa Rosada, seems to be in a state of permanent deterioration, broken and dirty, that it betrays a symbol of national power. However, if you go to certain cities in Pantagonia such as El Calafate or Ushuia, you feel like in Europe, so modern, clean and well-maintained.
* The population in general is very well-educated (you would know when you travel and chat with the younger people in middle class and up). However the country does not seem to be generating jobs that utilize their skills and educations. ( misallocation of resources, perhaps?)
* Some (minority of) people are very rich ane well-off, and form certain upper scale neighborhoods in various cities, with private security and a North American or European living standards while you have many in dire poverty, and there seems to be no political will to change it.
* The most European country in South America, but had tragic episodes in its history, including the military dictatorship from 1976 to 1983 (about 25 years ago it ended) and the Falkland War/ Las Malvinas and where people have high level of distrust for governments and politicians.
* Nowhere did I find a people with such a high level of civic consciousness as to what need to be done, and how things need to change in Argentina, however this high level of civic consciousness seems fail to translate into real political and social changes.
* A resource rich country, however, the richness of resource does not seem to translate into richness for the general population and into investments that would continue generating future benefits.
Much of these can be explained by the fact that Argentina is a sprawling country running through the trajectory of history with diverse regions, diverse constituents and diverse interests held together by imperfect institutions, unstable political processes and less-than-ideal democratic traditions. Some would also add the legacy of Juan Domingo Peron, military dictatorship, the evildoing of Carlos Menem, and the subversive hands of the US government and its goons in CIA to the brew. (I do not claim infallibility in any of these views.)
I can go on more...however, I think I will comment accordingly as I go.
Despite all its idiosyncrasies, I have to say I love Argentina for its people and its culture. That is why I came back again and again. How distinct and fascinating this country is in its constitution, language, culture, music, landscape and life-styles! I just love it!
I will stop here, and go get something to eat. To wrap up this blog, I will post some pictures I took in the city of Buenos Aires yesterday where a marketing campaign was pushed out on Avenida Santa Fe, the shopping and recreational district of the city, for the grand opening of a new HP store. I will also attach the link of Libertango by Astor Piazolla, the most original Argentine nuevo tango composer. Enjoy!
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